Saturday, February 29, 2020

Building a Better Brunch




Certain combinations are just expected.  Salt ‘n Pepper.  Toast and Butter.  Cheap bubbly and a headache. 
  
Crime and Jail.

When it comes to food items, we usually group dishes by origin, ethnicity or even time of day.   Bacon and Eggs at Breakfast, Grilled Reuben for Lunch and Prime Rib with Twice Baked Potato at Dinner; all most comfy and expected, thank you very much. 
What if you were to attend a meal that served everything from malted flour waffles with real maple syrup and strawberries to tortellini with pesto and maybe a few slices of roast leg of lamb with rosemary demi-glace.   Start with a coffee, go to a fresh juice, then maybe sparkling wine and finish with a beer.
 
“Chef, that sounds either in-SANE or a really good Brunch menu!”

Indeed, it is both crazy and perfect, plonked right in the middle of the day with a menu comprised of anything you like from any breakfast, lunch or dinner you’ve ever had.  Nothing is off-limits: 

Crepes filled with sweet cream cheese and topped with a fruit compote?  Yes!
Smoked Salmon with red onions, capers and spicy mustard on toast points?  Mmmm-Hmmm!
Fluffy Omelette made to order with your choice of fillings?  We can SPLIT it!
Bay Scallops with a creamy, White Wine-Chive sauce in a delicate pastry shell?   It looks VER-y light…
Hazelnut Torte with Fresh Rasberry Sauce?  Perfect…I’m gluten-free today!

See how easy it is to justify any food combination when you put it under the heading of “Brunch?”
This year, I’m hosting a Brunch on Easter and can’t wait to ‘Wow my Crowd’ with the best Eggs Benedict in the Known and Unknown Universe.  And that’s just for starters, but, let’s talk a little about what it takes to host an amazing meal in the middle of the day.   Let’s call it “The 3 Ps: Passion, Planning and Procurement.”

Passion:  If it’s not bursting out of you, if you couldn’t care less about serving pieces, if packaged sauce mix tastes the same as the Real Deal, stop here and make a reservation at Denny’s.  If, however, Perfection is your Goal and the Journey is your Joy, please continue.   It’s Springtime and the Earth has awakened with pastel colors and delicate aromas.  People are smiling again as the sun extends its glowing presence by a few more minutes each day.  Songbirds have returned to remind us when to sleep and wake.   The subtle hues of Spring ease us out of Winter and prepare us for the next cycle of living: Summer.

And outdoor seating is back!
 
Spring has sprung, so, let your passion for food, faith, family and friends manifest itself with one divine, glorious multi-sensory meal at high noon.

Planning:  This is KEY.  Our goal is to ENJOY the day, not dread it and pray for it’s conclusion.  Ready?  Let’s DO this!  OK, first off, build a menu on paper with a pencil.  We need 1-Egg dish, 1- Meat, 1- Fruit, 1-Special entrée’, 2-Pastries, 1-Charcouterie (cold meat and cheese).  Easy-Peasey.   For the Egg dish, do something that is baked like a Frittata, Quiche or Midwest Egg Bake Casserole.  Cook the day-of.  Use fun ingredients and post them on a menu board or calligraphy table tents.  It gets guests salivating before they even taste!  Egg is done. 

Meat: roast something, let it come to room temp or colder, slice it and fan it out on an interesting wood cutting board or large serving platter.  Can be done days ahead.  Remember, we want the look of abundance and symmetry.  Add a ramekin(s) of condiments that are appropriate and an interesting old fork for service.  Meat done.

Fruit:  DON’T make a fruit salad!!!  Please, please, please don’t go to the effort of cutting fresh fruit into fork-sized pieces only to dump it into a bowl.  Arghhh!  Cut your fruit into slices and arrange in either concentric circles or in rows, keeping an eye to progressive color changes and contrasts.  This can be done 2 days prior and kept in Ziploc bags, neat and organized.  A drop-dead gorgeous fruit platter is edible art.  Fruit done.
   
Special Entrée:  I’m doing Eggs Benedict with Hollandaise from scratch.  Labor intensive, but, if you can pull it off, the impression lasts years.  Easier ‘Special?’  hmmm…Leg of Lamb…Canapes of Lox with all the fixins…Biscuits and real Sausage Gravy…something with “Wow” factor that is a ‘fire and forget’ dish; impressive, put it on a platter and never touch it again.  Special done.
  
Pastries:  don’t even THINK of making your own unless you are a trained professional or Austrian grandma.  Your energies can be better spent elsewhere.  That’s why God invented Market of Choice, Zupan’s, and Grand Central Baking.  Spend money here, ladies and germs.  One-bite pastries in little fluted paper cups are a treat.  Everyone loves this.  Everyone.  Pastries done. 

Charcouterie:  People have to grab my arm and haul me away from standing at a board of sliced deli meats and stinky cheeses, consuming the entirety while talking to no one about the brilliance of flavors and textures, regions and history.  This board/marble slab/slate is another work of art that is stand-alone.  Construct it with an eye to symmetry and function, add crackers and sliced interesting bread, 3 good mustards and walk away.  I’m thinking right now of paper-thin Prosciutto and nearly liquid St. Andre’ Triple Cream…I need a tissue, this is getting emotional.  Charcouterie done. 

Procurement:  Don’t buy crap.  Make sure that everything that goes into your guest’s gullets is the best you can source.  That does not mean the most expensive, it means the BEST you can source.  Fruit is going to be your stickiest wicket; finding ripe, sweet fruit 3 days before your brunch.  Travel, look, smell, sample.  Cheeses…if I may suggest a larger Fred Meyer with a cheese dept.  I went to one on McLoughlin and they had a-MAZ-ing cheeses deeply discounted because they were ‘ripe.’  That’s the cheese I WANT!!!  And speaking of crackers, Trader Joe’s is SO much fun to shop!  Olive tapenades, cool crackers, nuts, all kinds of fun party things at great prices.  For Big Meat items, here’s an inside tip from a chef:  go to Cash & Carry, now called ‘Smart Food Service’ or something…wholesale pricing when feeding a large group and they turn over their product daily.  The meat selection is excellent! 

Lastly, as you get closer to Easter Sunday and start to get a little stressed, remember why you’re doing this:  You love your Family and Friends and want to show it with food and service.  They all love you and will forgive any hiccups.   If you are the spouse, be over-the-top supportive and positive all day!

Relax.  Have fun.  Hug, kiss and laugh. 
That’s why we’re here.   For each other.

Take care, God bless and remember:

“Food, Faith, Family and Friends
the Best Things in Life Aren’t Things.”

ChefBQ